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Central Michel Richard Restaurant Review: Michel Richard's casual American bistro attracts a constant state of hustle and bustle to its lively dining room. This Penn Quarter setting exemplifies why Richard and all his restaurants continuously please. Of course, a handful of French-inspired dishes take their place on the menu: gougères (cheese puffs), tuna salad niçoise, and frisée salad with lardons and poached egg. As for his Americanized fare, check out the goat cheese Caesar salad, grilled mushroom and cheese sandwich, and roasted chicken with potatoes. We always enjoy a good burger, and the kitchen offers versions ranging from the classic with cheese and bacon to a meatball burger (imagine spaghetti and meatballs without the spaghetti), a tuna burger and a lamb burger. Sweets include an ultra-rich Michel's chocolate bar and a fruity crisp, made crunchy with slivered almonds and topped with buttermilk ice cream. You may be tempted by the selection of beers and cocktails, including a few featuring absinthe, but don't overlook the wine list. With about 100 different selections from small French and American producers, and a smattering of options from Australia, Italy and Spain, the list will please even the most dedicated oenophile.