Chang's Garden Restaurant Review: Taiwan native Henry Chang is turning out exciting Chinese food from a strip mall just south of Santa Anita Park. The industrial décor features metal plates with circular cutouts and strings of Christmas lights, even during summer. The large menu of Shanghai-style classics has plenty of options. A quartet of hot lotus leaves unfurl to reveal chile-flecked glutinous rice and aromatic spare ribs tender from steaming. Chef Chang rolls flaky Chinese pancakes around spiced sliced beef, but it’s better to order the version that cradles a cluster of tender green beans seasoned with tiny dried shrimp. Shanghai-style rice cakes are pan-fried with soy sauce until nice and crusty, then tossed with onions, pork and spinach. Fish filet with hot bean sauce contains no hot beans; instead, flounder comes in a garlicky, flamed-red chili sauce, fiery and satisfying. There are several clay pot dishes, the best of them containing nubs of on-the-bone chicken, whole chestnuts and a magma-like brown sauce flecked with ginger. If you’re thinking of ordering a vegetable, go with garden-fresh snow pea shoots sautéed with garlic cloves. Chang’s Garden offers no desserts, but includes orange slices and fortune cookies with the check.
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