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The Church Key

8730 Sunset Blvd. (Alta Loma Rd.) Send to Phone
A dining experience grounded in contrast makes chef Steven Fretz’s restaurant an exciting destination.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Cuisine
Open
Dinner nightly, Brunch Sun.
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Dining room at The Church Key, West Hollywood, CA

The Church Key Restaurant Review

: Chef Steven Fretz has found the key to success with this restaurant. After moving around the country from West to East and back to the West, and even going all the way to Australia, he has, over the years, amassed significant knowledge. Fretz’s extensive culinary ventures came to maturity and the result is The Church Key, where he is pushing the boundaries of modern American cuisine --- a very good thing, as it’s how and why gastronomy evolves. We feel that this place is more than a restaurant; rather, it’s a dining concept in itself. The “wahoo” effect starts as you enter the large, airy and vibrant space. Décor is eclectic, with some industrial hints due to the height of the ceiling, its texture and the white brick walls. But comfort is rendered by the variety of chairs and tables, the fireplace dividing the lounge from the dining room, the wall of bottles at the bar, the china and silverware, cushions, frames and drapes. To start your evening, you cannot bypass one of mixologist Devon Espinosa’s creations. Then it’s on to the menu, and that’s where Fretz’s vision continues. Part one: There is a printed version with some twenty-five items that range from appetizers, entrées and desserts. We highly recommend the housemade Parker House rolls with bacon jam; chicken liver parfait topped with a slight coat of blackberry gelée, served with a delicious house-made brioche; ahi tartare with pineapple, Greek yogurt, pistachios, cucumber and pappadam; or tapioca-crusted tai snapper in white soy vinaigrette. Part two: Rolling carts present small bites inspired by Fretz’s discoveries at the market, and his mood. You never know what to expect, except what has now become a classic, the Pig Ear “Cheetos,” a definite must-have. Another novelty are the cocktail popsicles, which are made-to-order with liquid nitrogen at an airplane-style Pan Am cart by a server styled as a flight attendant. In the dessert category, you may find banana toffee pudding or brioche donuts with brown butter glaze and cinnamon caramel. Fretz has teamed up with Joseph Sabato for the front of the house, who also oversees a very small wine list, Ryan Ososky as chef de cuisine and Ian Opina for pastry.

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