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Cobea Restaurant Review: Philippe Bélissent, formerly of Laurent, Ledoyen, and Le Restaurant in L’Hôtel, and his partner, the maître d’ Jérôme Cobou, are behind Cobéa, located in an ancient house near Montparnasse. The décor blends sobriety and elegance, and the dining room offers a view of the open kitchen. But the most interesting element is the cooking, by which Bélissent expresses his originality and his indisputable talent. Products are topnotch and finely emphasized by inventive textures, seasonings and accompaniments. Among appetizers, beet is prepared in two ways: in emulsion and cut in dices. Then it’s on to a festival of flavours, rather impressive with squab sided by hummus and enhanced by lemon and honey; lobster from Brittany wrapped in ravioli and drenched with its shell juice; and monkfish a la plancha set off by avocado and grapefruit. Expect a refreshing finale with strawberries cooked in the form of meringue. As for the wines, there is a wide selection that complements the fare.