- Dress code: Casual dressy
* Click here for rating key
David Toutain Restaurant Review: Young chef David Toutain, who hails from Normandy, is one of the leaders of a new class of chefs mimicking abstract artists (such as Miró) who cared very little about texture and structure and found their way in abstraction. Minimalist décor features tables and chairs made of raw timber. Meanwhile, the plates are brilliantly colored or plain to match each dish. The bias here is “aesthetics” first, but le tour de force is that the aesthetic choices fit the balance of flavors very well. Colors and shapes underline and enhance the tastes. Lashes of chopped squid form the bed for shallot confit and cébette (a variety of onion) surrounded by spots of ink. Squab comes with red beetroot, multicolored flowers and nasturtium leaves spiced with turmeric. Poultry perfumed with dill and accompanied by sweet garlic crème is far from being stereotypical. Egg yolk is combined astutely with creamy green peas and tiny dices of peach. For dessert, strawberry morsels and ice cream are served with rhubarb and tonka bean cream. All of these beautiful concoctions could just be gimmicks, but that is not the case. Everything is under control. The artist and the gourmand are both pleased. With this type of cuisine, “natural” wines that respect the fruit are de rigueur. Very satisfying lunch menu at €55. À la carte: €80 and €110. With wine pairings €180.