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De Rodriguez Cuba on Ocean

101B Ocean Dr. (1st St.) Send to Phone
In a poolside beach setting, Douglas Rodriguez presents imaginative takes on Cuban dishes plus his pioneering pan-Latin ceviches.
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Local Deals: 120 * 90

Cuisine
Open
Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner daily
Open late Fri.-Sat.
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Dining room at De Rodriguez Cuba on Ocean, Miami Beach, FL

De Rodriguez Cuba on Ocean Restaurant Review

: From the chef recognized nationally since the early 1990s as the "Godfather of Nuevo Latino Cuisine," Douglas Rodriguez' restaurant combines the casual East-West ceviches/Nuevo Latino tapas concept of D. Rodriguez Ocean, its predecessor in the same beachfront space, and the "authentic Cuban" (according to Rodriguez) fine dining concept of his short-lived D. Rodriguez Cuba in SoBe's Astor hotel. The poolside patio with its tropical plants is the preferred dining area, and the modern Nuevo Latino ceviches (flash-marinated rather than long lime-soaked) are definitely the way to start dinner. If we had to pick just one, it would be the combination of tuna and compressed watermelon, but fortunately a ceviche trio makes choosing easier. As for Cuban specialties, while Rodriguez resists the term Nuevo Cubano, diners shouldn't expect anything like traditional dishes --- unless abuela's (grandmother's) empanadas were made with foie gras and fig; her meatballs came with a creamy black truffle mushroom sauce; and her vaca frita wasn't fried beef shreds but crispy short ribs with heirloom tomatoes, avocado and herbed warm rice salad. Indeed, virtually all of the menu's Cuban dishes are chef-driven takes on classics, ultimately refined with French techniques, quality ingredients and considerable creativity, but authentically Cuban in their strongly-spiced but not-spicy flavor profile. Inventions that showcase the chef’s playful side include his “Cuban sandwich”: a mini-stack of the traditional ham/cheese/roast pork/pickle filling with an ultra-thin crêpe-like coating substituting for Cuban bread. Familiar Cuban home-cooking it's not, but for diners seeking imaginatively upscaled Cuban food, with playful tropical cocktails and a comprehensive (if predictable) wine list to accompany, this is the best choice in town.

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