This Mission District restaurant was opened by chef Craig Stoll and his partner, Anne Spencer. The short, seasonal, farmers-market-driven menu takes its cue from simple, regional Italian dishes which allow the talent of the kitchen and the essence of the ingredients to shine through. Making regular appearances on the starters list are an insalata del campo, boasting a stand-up aged balsamic dressing, toasted walnuts and bitter greens; and a plate of succulent, grilled calamari resting on frisée and warm white beans. Rustic pastas, like ravioli plumped with spinach and locally made ricotta or toothy ribbons of pappardelle tossed with tender chunks of slow-cooked lamb shoulder, make up about half the entrée list. Meat and fish command the remainder, with handsome entrées like roast chicken with mashed Yukon Gold potatoes and Niman Ranch steak with crispy, well-salted fries. The mid-size, mid-priced wine list is stocked with tasty bottles, each of which the servers would be happy to discuss at length. Delfina's success is evidenced in the nightly line of well-dressed diners outside the door hoping to get the few coveted walk-in tables. While bar seats for two are usually available on short notice during the week, prime-time weekend reservations may require a call well in advance. But take the 5:30 p.m. reservation if you must; the classy-yet-casual, industrial-inspired, butter-yellow room can get quite noisy by 8 p.m.
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