 DRAGO Centro Restaurant Review: A grand, sparkling nest of skyscrapers rises up with noir-ish romance around Celestino Drago's downtown jewel that outshines even his other Italian dazzlers --- Il Pastaio, Enoteca Drago --- giving City National Plaza's former bank a magical reincarnation and the Eastside its first serious Italian restaurant. Drago and partner-general manager Matteo Ferdinandi pull together a first-rate Italian menu, professional service and a compelling wine program anchored by rare Italian bottles balanced with a landscape of moderate, lesser-known regional delights. There are more than a dozen selections available by the glass. The restaurant's sleek Milan-inspired modern décor of broad windows, gleaming glass wine tower, black Murano lamps and bold post-modernist art conjures a lively atmosphere capturing the high energy of downtown's politico heavies, business elite and high-end arts crowd. Modern Italian dishes are a balance of refined and rustic, beautifully presented. Blood oranges add a touch of sweetness to the baby octopus salad. Handmade pastas include the signature dish of roast pheasant pappardelle with morels, and various obscure regional specialties starring seasonal items like smoked pig's jowl. The bone-in rib-eye for two is carved tableside and accompanied by garlic polenta, zucchini pesto and cipollini onions. End your meal with an order of bomboloni (Italian donuts) with strawberries, mascarpone crème and basil gelato.
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