THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Eight-18

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Eight-18 Restaurant Review:

Building on the success of Wine 661 in Valencia, Brad Roen opened this modern wine and tapas bar, named for the San Fernando Valley’s area code. The sprawling space features a wall of wine lockers, a granite bar and Kelly Hackney’s artistic photos of wine and cheese. At night, the packed front room produces a cacophony of music and conversation. Lunch is more subdued, drawing clientele from surrounding studios. Chef Alex Eusebio skillfully prepares wine-friendly small plates. Plump mussels are bathed in a sauce of roasted fennel, garlic and bacon. Creamy macaroni (actually fusilli) and cheese (four cheeses) is plated with sautéed arugula and bacon, plus a Parmesan disc. A single boneless short rib is braised until caramelized and served with wax beans, haricots verts and carrots. Geographically diverse wines are available by the glass, carafe and bottle. A silver fridge displays 16 reds on tap, highlighted by a smooth Argentinean Tempranillo and Spanish Crianza. Eight-18 is strong on cheese and even employs a fromager to match “Mild,” “Intermediate” and “Immense” cheeses with wines. For dessert, order the “best ever” bread pudding, made with panettone, studded with cranberries and served warm in vanilla anglaise. Given Roen’s success, it shouldn’t be long before we’re treated to Wine 310 or Three-23.