THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fressen

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Fressen Restaurant Review:

Amid the warehouses of this otherwise desolate block is a door with a tiny nameplate that opens into Fressen---a handsome, hard-edged cube with cement walls and floors, divided into a few rooms with a big central bar. Though cement and hard angles may not sound romantic, the décor works and even manages to feel timeless despite its hipness. The menu changes nightly (and sometimes completely from one week to the next). On one night the ricotta gnocchi with fresh herbs were light and extraordinarily tasty in a thin broth, the grilled snapper with carrots and onions was enough for two and the bay scallops with ratatouille were succulent. The razor clams with cilantro were fresh and flavorful and the dirty mashed potatoes were terrific. Order them with the cracked-pepper, dry-aged rib-eye with marinated zucchini ribbons and cherry tomatoes and you won’t have to eat again for days. Or at least until dessert, when the chocolate graham cracker icebox cake with honey whipped cream will top childhood memories. The medium-size wine list is overstocked with medium-quality small producers, but makes a valiant attempt.