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George's California Modern Restaurant Review: This restaurant embodies good taste on myriad levels. We believe the secret to its success is the culinary triumvirate of affable owner George Hauer, executive chef/partner Trey Foshee, and partner/general manager April Johnson, who has a talent for training her staff in the art of service. Chef Foshee has been instrumental in defining San Diego’s regional cuisine, as his dishes are paeans to the finest products and coastal treasures. Through his farm-to-table approach, Foshee focuses on coaxing the true essence and flavor from his seasonal ingredients. The ever-evolving menu captivates with dishes like grilled local octopus with potato, green garlic and guajillo pepper vinaigrette; or roasted sardines with fennel, Chino Farms squash and Serrano ham aïoli. For meat aficionados, the Colorado lamb, braised shoulder and loin, delights with quinoa and nectarines, while the beef tenderloin with bone marrow vinaigrette keeps nice company with creamed Swiss chard. The wine list, which offers more than 375 selections, makes for an evening of notable pairings. Mixologist Stephen Kurnpinsky has composed a distinctive drinks menu; his First Truth mingles Buffalo Trace Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey with strawberry shrub, ginger, strawberry-spearmint tincture, and charged water --- a delightful sipper. Desserts by pastry chef Lori Huffman also push creative boundaries. Diners may call ahead to reserve TBL3, a single chef's table for which Foshee prepares an exclusive nine-to-12-course meal based on his whims.