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Hen of the Wood Restaurant Review: Tucked beside a tumbling mountain brook, this refurbished nineteenth-century grist mill exudes rustic elegance. Much of the dining room seems hewn from the earth, with hardwood floors and fieldstone walls that celebrate country living. Indeed, chef Eric Warnstedt subscribes to Vermont's locavore mantra, sourcing meats and produce from nearby farms. Turophiles will go for his comprehensive cheese menu, while rabbit pâté is sure to please more intrepid palates. Waitstaff might seem too young to pour, but they know the Hen's sizable cellar, acting as on-the-spot sommeliers. Choose a bottle or two, and sample wedges of Shelburne Farms' slightly salty, clothbound cheddar. Or warm up with the kitchen's irresistible namesake: wild mushroom toast, crowned under braised bacon and poached egg. Just don’t miss Warnstedt's unadorned bowls of pan-seared gnocchi. Each tiny forkful is a rich marriage of sheep's milk, red pepper and pine nuts. For dessert, order one of the torts; topped with fresh blueberries, the shortbread and lavender custard satisfy like a tangy cheesecake. Just minutes from Stowe, this is a true taste of Vermont.