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Il Teatro Restaurant Review: Like its predecessor, the current Italian restaurant of the Four Seasons Chinzan-so is supposed to be Milanese, especially since it is now associated with the highly-regarded Il Teatro of the Four Seasons Hotel in Milan. However, the chef is a young talent from Calabria who grew up right by the sea, so his specialties focus on seafood and reflect the light touch of the sunny South rather than the heavier flavors of the North. He uses very little butter, and prefers to flavor his pastas and fish dishes naturally with herbs, and the food is so refined that it’s almost like Japanese kaiseki fare. Order the chef’s specialties: a millefeuille of raw tuna dressed with boiled potatoes, green beans, grapefruit and anchovies; chilled gazpacho made from San Marzano tomatoes, herbs and olive oil; and his ravioli filled with shredded braised duck paired with a heavy sauce made from Norcia black truffles and Taleggio cheese.