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A sushi bar assumes the personality of its chef, and Tanashi Kantaro Oguma’s sense of humor pervades his enduring establishment. A gigantic plush moose sits watch over diners and a clock sports a piece of sushi for each hour. Kantaro clearly has fun, but when it comes to fish, he’s all business. Every morning, he drives downtown to purchase impeccable fish for his customers. To best experience his discoveries, order omakase, where the chef hand picks fish for sashimi, ten different pieces of sushi and a roll. Flavorful choices may include monkfish liver in ponzu sauce, toro, creamy Catalina sea urchin, or bursting salmon roe. If you’re lucky, Kantaro will prepare isobe age, fried halibut served three ways: in hand and cut rolls with crab, avocado, gobo root and smelt eggs; and on sushi, brushed with miso. Whereas many area sushi establishments create unnecessarily fussy pairings, Kantaro limits garnishes. The regular menu offers an array of sushi and sashimi, and monthly specials may feature spicy squid arms or broiled salmon collar. There is a small selection of beer and saké, and for dessert, red bean or green tea ice cream. Choose the former. The lunch specials are generous and extremely moderate in price.
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