 Another downtown outpost of Joachim Splichal's empire, Kendall's is a convenient place to dine before a performance at the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion or Walt Disney Concert Hall, especially if you don't have the time or money for neighboring Patina. And after the crowds have left for their performances, the scene is transformed from bustling brasserie to quiet bistro. With its semicircular zinc bar, terra cotta tile floors, generous use of wood, white linen-topped tables and oversize Toulouse-Lautrec murals, it's a warm, cozy environment for classic French dishes. Start with escargots or crab cake with celery rémoulade and green apple, or go for traditional soupe à l’oignon gratinée. Follow with braised short rib with mac ‘n’ cheese, grilled rack of lamb, or château steak with a solidly prepared béarnaise, and finish with dark chocolate mousse or an apple tart. The wine list includes interesting small producers from both France and California, as well as such exotic places as Slovenia, and a few relative bargains as well. Prices for dinner have crept up, just like theater tickets, but the afternoon menu --- think fresh salads, rotisserie chicken, a croque monsieur or burger with frites --- is a winning value. At peak theater hours, the staff can be stretched to its limits, but will always get you out on time if you’re headed to a show.
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