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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Kuni's Restaurant Review: Kuni Sato's Elmwood Avenue sushi bar bustles nearly every night of the week. Seating is a bit limited, but the atmosphere remains pleasant thanks to Sato's pervasive presence both behind the bar and in the room's Japanese décor. To excellent traditional sushi and sashimi, Sato adds hybrid items including a sea vegetable salad with its combo of four vegetables of varying textures atop mesclun greens and a choice of miso or ginger dressing. Other favorites include sushi made with mackerel smoked at Fat Bob's, and Cajun tuna: seared tuna edged with Cajun spices served with a citrusy soy sauce. The Cool as a Cucumber Roll is outstanding: thinly sliced cucumber enfolds rice, avocado, scallions and a choice of eel, mackerel or salmon. And anyone with a special sushi wish can get Sato to make it up, so long as the ingredients are available. Kuni's serves beer and wine in addition to cold and warm saké choices for more authentic imbibing. Local West Side residents form a steady stream of takeout customers.