 It is tempting to make the analogy between the remodel of his restaurant and his seemingly reinvigorated cuisine, but the key really seems to be that Roland Passot is still having fun. He ditched the marionettes in favor of a setting more reminiscent of Manhattan's sleekest eateries---polished wood accents and long, lean mirrors interspersed with earth-toned walls form a backdrop for the deep burgundy banquettes and roomy tables dressed in white linen. Service complements the ambience---professional but never snooty. The food, while elegant, has a sense of whimsy best described as a culinary Cirque du Soleil---Passot creates quail foie gras lollipops using two stripped quail legs to form sticks while liver-stuffed thighs become the suckers, and serves them beside wild mushroom-stuffed cannelloni of leeks. The apple gelée that surrounds the Dungeness crab Napoleon offers another illusion: Appearing as a pool of liquid, an attempted dip of the spoon finds a pliable aspic instead. Passot's talent for combining intriguing flavors and textures is evident in the butter-poached Maine lobster with shiso, scallion, carrot and toasted almond salad---sweet nuts are a wonderful companion to the rich lobster, and there is an unexpected crunch along with the succulence of the meat. Also stellar is l'assiette de boeuf---Painted Hill beef tenderloin, braised short rib and a miniature burger Rossini with truffle-Madeira sauce. For dessert try le coco et la passion---luscious coconut tapioca with passion fruit sorbet, basil infusion and coconut tuile that is a fitting end to a magical evening.
|
Send to Phone 
Splurging at top-rated restaurants is fun for special events, but where can you go for a good quality meal that won't break the bank? Gather the change out of your piggy bank and sofa cushions and take it to one of our selections for the best cheap eats in your area. Also, check out our picks for the Top 40 Cheap Eats in the U.S.
