: Gilles Ajuelos of the Bastide Odéon (also in the 6th arrondissement) has successfully taken over this neighborhood bistro with the spirit of Old France. On the lunch menu (€20.40) and carte (about €40) wisely priced for the neighborhood, he makes destiny with roguish plates, like the haddock with carrots, peas and potatoes; squid risotto; and apricot gratin.

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