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La Toque Restaurant Review

The Westin Verasa
1314 McKinstry St. (1st St.) Send to Phone
NapaCA 94559
707-257-5157 | Make Restaurant Reservations | Menu
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La Toque of the town: Ken Frank’s Napa debut. La Toque Restaurant is one of our 2012 | Top 10 Napa/Sonoma (CA) Food Rating Restaurants |

Cuisine

Open

Dinner nightly

Features

Wine

Great Wine List

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Dining room at La Toque, Napa, CAOut with the ungarnished, cloistered quarters of Rutherford. The re-launched La Toque, in Napa’s natty Westin Verasa hotel, is chef Ken Frank’s wish list realized: a sleek dining room and spacious glassed-in patio with roll-back roof, a two-way fireplace to bridge both spaces, a full bar and an airy kitchen with six-person chef’s table. The supersize chef toque marquee above the entryway symbolizes Frank’s optimistic vision that this new La Toque is the old La Toque to the nth power. To that end, certain dishes inspire: fava bean ravioli with porcini and lusty wild mushroom Parmesan broth, and crisp-skinned black cod, invigorated by kaffir lime broth. But there’s less poetry and edginess in other dishes that lean instead toward comfort: pork confit reminiscent of tender-crisp carnitas served atop polenta; a double-helping of rib-eye---slices and shreds forked into potatoes; lamb loin with chickpea frites (also a snack at the hotel lobby bar). No longer a forced, five-course affair, dinner is now less of a commitment---perhaps targeting hotel clientele wandering in for a cocktail and a couple of courses. Lukewarm spinach soup misses and necessitates an awkward juggle of utensils to cut a sunken lobster medallion. Pacing feels rushed---a shame given that the sommelier’s masterful wine pairings beg for lengthier enjoyment---but with 100-plus covers, that’s a challenge. With many guests in jeans and piped-in music such as Pink Floyd, one can’t help but wonder whether this is La Toque reincarnated or simply another restaurant altogether.

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