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This Monterey Park mainstay helped to ignite the local craze for Shanghai cuisine. It’s an inviting space, with green carpets, yellow and brown walls and a potted bamboo plant on every canary yellow table. The only modern touch is a flat screen TV that shows sports at night. Shanghai-native Xiao Ming’s noisette pork pump is justifiably famous, a quivering mass of hog rump. Peel away a thick layer of pork fat to reveal luscious meat, ringed by a moat of brown sauce and spinach. Tuesday to Thursday, the pump costs a bargain $10. Stir-fried rice cakes are crusty from the wok, tossed with baby bok choy, onions and squiggles of pork. Jade shrimp features a large serving of shelled crustaceans, bathed in a delicate spinach sauce. Steamed Shanghai dumplings are filled with orbs of pork and a spoonful of pork juice. From the Szechuan menu, cinnamon lamb features tender chile-slathered sheets of lamb showered with wood ear mushrooms, dried red chilies, celery and scallions. With the check, expect refreshing orange slices.
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