 Luce Restaurant Review: Located at lobby level in the InterContinental San Francisco, Luce inherits the cathedral-height ceilings affordable only to an ultra-premium hotel. (The restaurant’s logo and name are also inherited, in this case from a joint venture between the Frescobaldi wine family and California winemakers, the Mondavis.) The sophisticated dining room combines rich taupe tones, an exquisite marble floor and glittering, hand-blown, hanging orb lamps. Executive chef Daniel Corey is as expressive on the plate as the setting is in its grandeur. Opt for a six-course tasting menu (available Tuesday-Saturday) to fully experience his vision. A slate slab is used to present a delicate heap of house-cured Pacific amberjack, marinated in yuzu and olive oil and lightly sprinkled with trout roe. The dish delivers a clean, fresh flavor --- a consistent characteristic across the preparations --- with a light note of citrus. Crispy sweetbreads are a highlight, served with quail egg, wafers of new potatoes and black truffle, and a dash of pickled mustard seed to lend texture. Wine pairings are thoughtful, and selections tend to span the globe far more than one might expect given the restaurant’s dual-family winemaking origins. Dessert is the weak link --- opera cake delivers artistically but lacks the classic’s signature richness. Consider doubling up on the appetizers instead.
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