Given its location inside the InterContinental San Francisco, it might be easy to underestimate Luce----but it transcends the typical hotel restaurant. First, there's the dining room, which combines rich taupe tones and an exquisite marble floor with glittering, hand-blown, orb-like hanging lamps for a sophisticated setting. Then there's the menu: French-born chef Dominique Crenn (who is as charming as she is talented) takes a highly creative, almost artistic approach to her luxurious New American menu. Every dish showcases its ingredients, with a balanced mixture of colors and textures. Kampachi sashimi, for instance, is served over a paper-thin, nearly translucent slice of pickled melon, while a "spring vegetable garden" starter features pristine vegetables served on a thick stone slab and accompanied by various salts and aïolis to heighten flavors. Italian and French influences show up throughout, including in one of Crenn's signature dishes, a black ink trofiette "carbonara" with a poached egg and the creative addition of baby calamari. Crenn isn't afraid to take risks----her ocean and land carpaccio, for instance, is met with a quenelle of black olive ice cream---and in nearly all cases, it works. Just prepare to be surprised----in a good way.
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