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MBC Restaurant Review: Gilles Choukroun is much more than a cook. At the age of 24 he left the Relais d’Authou in Eure-et-Loir, for La Truie qui File in Chartres, followed by Le Café des Délices and L’Angl’Opera in Paris---and he keeps pursuing his quest for freedom. At MBC (Menthe, Basilic, Coriandre), where the three rooms feature a modern, chic look of black and grey, Choukroun creates his off-the-beaten-path cuisine with great confidence and success. Start with celeriac remoulade with mussels and curry or the magnificent fish brandade of mackerel, red mullet and potato, served with toasts rubbed with garlic and tomato. Choukroun distinguishes himself with dishes such as scallops cooked with blood sausage, balsamic and cocoa. Angus beef melts in the mouth, and mignon of pork is sautéed with sardines, confit citron and cumin. In short, talent and flavor are apparent in each course. Desserts have an Oriental tinge, as can be seen in the dried fig ice cream and délices made with citrus fruit and sweetened dates, pistachio, rose marmalade, almond milk, olive oil, cumin and fresh mint juice. The wine list is generous and the prices are reasonable. Wine by the glass are priced from 6 € and bottle from 20 €.