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THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED Neath's Restaurant Review: Chef/Owner Neath Pal is Providence’s leading practitioner of East-West cooking. He’s the Ming Tsai of Rhode Island: Born in Cambodia, trained in France, and (thankfully) exhibiting locally. Eating at his first solo venture is sheer drama. Guests first soak up the ember-hued glow of the downstairs lounge. Then they get to revel in the high-ceilinged upstairs dining room, complete with river views, emotive shades of red and yellow, and flattering candlelight. But the food makes all the difference. Chef Pal understands the Asian ingredients he laces his contemporary American dishes with---and it shows. Green mango is a tart foil for a four-on-the-floor salad of bitter arugula, sweet balsamic, and smoky pancetta. Shrimp are simmered with kaffir lime and lemon grass and smartly tossed with shards of pineapple and tomatoes. Duck breast is unctuous and simply dashing when draped over a sweet potato gratin. We can never leave without a fix of the chocolate wontons as a send-off.