 Dining at Oishii is a challenge. That's partly because this Chestnut Hill gem has only a handful of seats, and scoring one (let alone two) requires fortitude. But it's also because the ex-Nobu maestros who run the place stand behind their counter like Iron Chefs, daring you to dare them to make you something fabulous. They win the bet, of course; but that means you do too. Tuna is exquisitely fatty; geoduck is a textural wonder. Omakase is justifiably renowned. Still, sushi isn't the only must-try (just ask the local chefs who treat Oishii like their personal canteen on their rare off-nights). Crab cakes float down your throat; diamond shrimp---butterflied and stuffed with hotate hokai yaki---are triumphantly sweet and sassy; paper-thin strips of red clam tangle with lemon and seaweed. As challenges go, this one's a pleasure to accept. (Then again, the Sudbury branch---Oishii Too, 365 Boston Post Rd., 978-440-8300---might prove slightly more user-friendly to suburbanites.)
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