You might have to circle around a few times before you find the discreet entrance of the Avalon Hotel on the southwest corner of Olympic and Cañon. Marilyn Monroe’s former home when it was an apartment building was taken over by the Viceroy Hotel Group in 2000 and given a mid-century Italian twist by interior designer Kelly Wearstler. But when going to Oliverio, you don’t want to dine inside, but rather poolside, where you can choose tables or booths that can become very private. Chef Mirko Paderno, who hails from Milano and spent his childhood in the kitchen watching his mother cook, has composed a modernized Italian menu around his pleasant, home-cooking style. Dishes are not sophisticated, but are all very true to the flavors of the ingredients. Try a spicy tuna tartare on saffron rice cake before having a shot of the gazpacho, strengthened by the addition of vodka. Do not skip the cute pizzetta that can be topped simply by tomato, basil and burrata cheese or prosciutto, Parmesan and arugula. Of course, Paderno offers a nice selection of pasta and risotto. Topping the black cod with San Daniele prosciutto was gilding the lily, since the fish was so fresh and perfectly cooked. The lamb chops were as good as they could be, with a nice crispy crust and a juicy and tender inside. For the end, ask for a cheese plate, or go directly to chocolate sabayon cake served with an espresso caramel sauce or the lemon polenta pudding cake. Italy and California are the main sources of the affordable wine list, but be sure to ask the bartender about signature cocktails.
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