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Opa: The Phoenician Restaurant Review

230 Atwells Ave. (Dean St.) Send to Phone
ProvidenceRI 02903
401-351-8282
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Authentic Lebanese dining in a warm atmosphere on Federal Hill.

Cuisine

Open

Lunch & Dinner daily

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The oddly named Opa: The Phoenician stands out in Federal Hill’s increasingly diverse dining scene---a Lebanese restaurant (well, mostly) in a part of Providence once dominated by both old school and nouvelle Italian eateries. Perhaps out of a sense of perceived obligation, the offerings include several Italian dishes, from calamari to chicken Parmesan and smoked salmon fettuccine. However, we suggest zeroing in on chef Joseph Karan’s Lebanese specialties. Start with warm pita bread and a balsamic dipping sauce; the bread is far better than the vinegary dip. Things improve from there, however: the kafta plate includes six pieces of the rolled mix of ground lamb, beef, onion, parsley and Mediterranean spices, nicely charred. The chicken brick---named for the stone that presses the deboned breast down as it cooks---is crisp and succulent, redolent of a marinade consisting of yogurt, garlic, paprika and black pepper, with more garlic sauce on the side. Hummus is mild but flavorful, washed down by a serviceable sangría.

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