 ORTOLAN HAS CLOSED Chef-owner Christophe Émé, and wife, actress Jeri Ryan, continue to make Ortolan---named after the tiny, endangered game bird---one of the finest French restaurants in L.A. In an era of casual, inexpensive bistros, Émé remains dedicated to his brand of haute cuisine. The bar and lounge, actually two different rooms, welcome you for an apéritif or a parting drink. At the bar, sit amidst shelves filled with herbs the chef uses in the kitchen; or linger in the intimate dark blue lounge on a sofa by the fireplace. The main dining room commands elegance with luxurious drapes, high-back leather booths and classic crystal chandeliers, a comfortable setting to experience the solid preparations of chef Émé. Among starters, you'll find a foie gras terrine with apricot coulis and an elegant scrambled egg served in its shell with osetra caviar, followed by a classic blanquette de veau or innovative compositions like seared escargots and crayfish with rabbit meatballs. Be sure to visit in late fall when the white truffle menu makes its annual appearance. Émé makes a strong and modern statement in the presentations of his dishes, with bold colors, shapes and arrangements, some arriving on hot stones or other unusual vessels. To finish, Émé awakens cheesecake with his lighter-than-air interpretation made with puff pastry, and panna cotta with passion fruit arouses the taste buds. An expectedly pricey wine list includes world-class Bordeaux and Burgundy offerings, as well as top California wines and modest representations from other new-world nations.
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