The trio behind Pizzeria Mozza---Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich---strikes again with this larger spot right next door, on the corner of Melrose and Highland Avenues. The grey and black toned décor creates a New York atmosphere, even if some patrons wear shorts and hide their identities under baseball caps---an outfit you’d rarely find in the Big Apple. The action here splits between the mozzarella bar and the cocktail bar, the former offering a half-page of dishes composed of variations of the soft white cheese (mozzarella, burrata, fiore de latte), the latter enhanced by a collection of illuminated bottles. Have your mozzarella seasoned with caramelized shallots, basil, caperberry relish or mint pesto and accompanied by a variety of ingredients such as braised artichokes, prosciutto di Parma, leeks, bacon or celery. Antipasti options include grilled octopus, crispy pigs’ trotters and braised artichoke with a lightly cooked egg yolk. Continue in the Italian vein with nearly a dozen pasta choices, or sample snapper, Santa Barbara prawns, pan-roasted wild salmon, grilled quail, lamb or roasted pork, or a 24-ounce, porcini-rubbed, bone-in rib eye. Desserts are simple: torta della nonna, olive oil cake with olive oil gelato, and several homemade gelatos and sorbetti. The all-Italian wine list provides a wide array of selections from many regions and in many styles.
|