THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Patina

THIS RESTAURANT HAS CHANGED LOCATIONS Patina Restaurant Review:

PATINA WILL CLOSE AT THIS LOCATION OCTOBER 18. A NEW PATINA WILL OPEN AT THE WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL ON OCTOBER 28. Joachim Splichal has opened a new chapter in his restaurateur life. Having followed the tribulations of the child prodigy since his early beginnings, God knows how admiring we are of his successive tours de force, whether as a hard-working artisan or a flamboyant businessman reigning over an empire of restaurants with the precious help of his wife Christine. This reverence authorizes us to scrutinize without complacence the rest of his itinerary. After the gold and the glory, he seems to be now closing full circle, returning to the ovens of Patina, giving himself the-deserved-title of master-chef. The old, monastic Patina has been muted into a 21st-century luxurious dining arena, divided in two parts plus a patio. Sparkling crystal and beautiful silverware shine on the well-spaced tables under the veneer of the walls setting the décor for the gala. Splichal wants to restore some traditions in the grand manner like bringing the entire dish to the table and doing the service tableside, which indeed is different from the commonly contemporary accepted service à l'assiette. Obviously with some of the work being done before their eyes, the guests feel they receive more attention. What's on our plates results from the vast experience of Splichal, who has been an innovator on the L.A. scene. His observations and maturity probably incite him understandably towards a more classical approach. In a word: no extravaganza here. There are few traces on the menu of the Splichal of the earlier days which we revered so much for his impetuous creativity. But nostalgia does not authorize us to complain if artists in the course of their life change their style. After all, Picasso did that constantly. That said, as always, we salute the super professionalism of the team and the high quality of the products. The vegetables are particularly noticeable for freshness and flavor as in exceptional heirloom tomatoes, artichokes (served roasted) and shiitake mushrooms. This statement also is illustrated by the marinated vegetables with herbs and the baby greens in citrus vinaigrette as an appetizer---which is sheer delightful simplicity. But you can choose more elaborate and exciting venues among the appetizers such as the braised veal cheeks with hand-rolled macaroni and mascarpone cheese. Entrées reflect the trend to return to the great classics such as the braised beef short rib and Angus tenderloin with portobello mushrooms and Yukon potato gnocchi. The perfectly cooked dish reminds us that Splichal is the genius of potatoes. Be sure not to leave this house without sampling them one way or another. The local halibut is treated simply: grilled on wood with basil, truffles and melted heirloom tomatoes. A subtle white bean mousseline and artichokes accompany a wild striped bass, while the line-caught salmon is enhanced with a daube of wild mushrooms. Vegetarians will be very happy with the Garden Menu and its heirloom tomatoes with burrata cheese, its grilled asparagus, its roasted artichoke and its chanterelle mushroom agnolotti. A superb conclusion is a delicate apricot-red plum soup with muscat granita-filled plum confit created by pastry chef Michelle Meyers. The wine list, larger than ever, is particularly strong on Burgundy.