Jean-Georges Vongerichten has one of the best fine-dining restaurants in New York and a string of sophisticated restaurants around the world. His steakhouse here in the Bellagio is handsome indeed---heavy velvet drapery, well-spaced tables, and high-end silver and crystal. And the steak is superb: fat-marbled Prime beef with a meaty flavor made more intense by aging, like fine wine, which---at Prime---is abundant. We like the seared foie gras with toasted brioche, black olives and lychee purée, and the steak tartare and carpaccio appetizers. The rack of lamb with smoked chili glaze and broccoli rabe is a winner. So is the slow-baked salmon with baby bok choy and a ginger-chili vinaigrette. The warm Valrhona chocolate cake with a molten center is a work of art.
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