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The Publick House Restaurant Review: Decking the walls amid candlelit Gothic furnishings and fixtures scavenged from old New England churches, European breweriana promises beer buffs they’ve come to the right place when they enter this Washington Square pub. The taps lining the bar live up to the promise, as not a one is wasted on mass-produced suds --- all contain craft brews from the world over with a heavy focus on Belgians, poured into the proper glassware by bartenders as hops-happy as their patrons. Meanwhile, the by-the-bottle selection, dozens and dozens strong, actually exceeds said promise --- The Publick House isn’t merely the right place, it’s paradise to local seekers of trappist ales and lambics, doppelbocks and imperial stouts. As for the fact that they can eat their beer as well as drink it, thanks to a kitchen that specializes in Belgian-style cuisine a la bière, well, that’s beyond all reckoning. On tap, so to speak, are Belgian meatballs and braised short rib mac ‘n’ cheese. We like the Belgian seafood stew and moules frites (a massive bowl of PEI mussels with side of crispy frites). Of course, there’s a price to be paid for such pubby pleasure, and it’s not monetary --- even the most avid acolytes wax acrid about the tense waits for tables.