Scoma's Restaurant Review: When the Scoma brothers took over a six-table coffee shop for fishermen down an alley on Pier 47, central Wharf restaurateurs laughed. Forty years later, no one is laughing. A number of things set Scoma's apart, starting with unparalleled freshness---it is the only restaurant in San Francisco with a commercial license to buy right off the boats. Also key is chef Steve Scarabosio, who, over 20-plus years, has changed the menu from basic Wharf fare to one featuring local produce, natural beef and seasonal, sustainable seafood. Start with calamari fritti---not the frozen rings most diners are accustomed to but hand-cut tubes of Monterey squid lightly coated in flour and fried golden brown. We also enjoy the shellfish sauté of petite lobster tails, prawns, clams and scallops in white wine sauce. Scoma's also boasts arguably the best clam chowder on the Wharf, a creamy broth redolent with sea-salty clam juice and loaded with sweet clams. The menu's highlight, however, is the California red abalone---tender with a distinctive mild flavor, it makes us remember why abalone is worth the price. Service is friendly and relaxed and views of boats bobbing in the harbor add to the ambience. The well-chosen wine list includes some good values.
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