 In a city of buzzed-about standouts, don't overlook this elegant and unexpectedly welcoming dining room in the Four Seasons San Francisco. The expansive fifth-floor space features plush armchairs, curvy, contemporary wood décor, an exhibition kitchen and vast, bright views onto the city's downtown. A cheerful sense of intimacy is maintained through the charm, pace and seamless teamwork of a professional staff. Executive chef Mark Richardson has energized the menu with a focus on modern, innovative steakhouse dining. Meats are first-rate, including a Hearst Ranch filet. Cuts stand well on their own, but Richardson's indulgent roster of house-made sauces, such as a green peppercorn and bourbon, is worth exploring. À la carte sides include a creamed spinach that is neither creamed nor spinach: Swiss chard, collard greens and mustard greens are mixed tableside with an egg warmed to 63 degrees, the results silky and textured. Rich Parmesan spätzle is sprinkled with hazelnuts and drizzled with truffle oil. Don't miss Jeffrey Wurtz's exuberant dessert menu. Prolong the evening with a visit to the adjoining lounge with live piano for a specialty cocktail such as the Trust Fund, made with gin, elderflower liqueur, orange marmalade and fresh mint.
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