Simone Chip Smith The Simone

The Simone

151 E. 82nd St. (3rd & Lexington Aves.)
New York, NY 10028
212-772-8861
Map
Cuisine: French
Classic French preparations paired with old-world style in an elegant Upper East Side townhouse.
Openings: Dinner Mon.-Sat.

Features

The Simone, New York, NY


The Simone Restaurant Review:


Dining trends may come and go, but hopefully there will always be a place for a restaurant like this one, that serves well-executed classic French preparations and does things the "old-fashioned" way. The kitchen falls under proprietor-chef Chip Smith's domain, while co-proprietor and wife Tina Vaughn, and a third partner, Robert Margolis, keep things running seamlessly in the dining room. The menu, written in cursive, is a throwback to the beginning of the last century, as is the absence of online reservations; instead telephone bookings are recorded by hand. The bright and intimate dining room is upscale but not pretentious; likewise, service is professional but not affected. Starters such as a savory homemade puff pastry tart with caramelized onions, Gruyère, egg and prosciutto, and sweetbreads with pearl onions, mustard and beurre blanc are delicately rendered and full of concentrated and harmonious flavors. Second courses include pillowy seared scallops with sautéed mushrooms and salsify in a Romaine lettuce and toasted hazelnut sauce. A pan roasted and slow roasted duck duo of breast and thigh with toasted farro, pickled cherries and morels is characterized by a savory and pungent combination of tastes. The wine list consists of carefully chosen bottles from the Old and New World. Basque cake and velvety chocolate confections are among the desserts.