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SoLo Farm & Table Restaurant Review: Owner Chloe Genovart welcomes guests to her farmhouse as though they were kin --- an easy charm she famously brought to Thomas Keller's Per Se. SoLo's open hearth fire faces the foyer bar, ideal for warming oneself while cracking into a Heady Topper (Vermont’s noted IPA). And while local pours abound, few brews beat the “Bee's Knees,” a bright mix of honey, citrus and Barr Hill gin. Chef Wesley Genovart (who once captained Manhattan's Degustation) brings Franco-Spanish flair to starters like smoked mackerel, laid gracefully upon a spoon under thin strips of carrot. Whether it's a rustic terrine or country salad, his focus is unmistakable. Petite gherkins punch up minced pork pâté, while kale comes dressed under coiled apple shavings and creamy Camembert. We paired a Barco de Piedra with braised pork cheek in brown butter; each sip of Tempranillo evoking riches from the ravioli's sultry au jus. Diners will celebrate SoLo's côte du bœuf, but with an auteur like Genovart under the toque, steak might feel prosaic. Instead, trust the explorations of a kitchen that sources much of its game locally, from Tamworth pork to Cavendish quail. The artisanal "muffaletta" rabbit comes stuffed with olives and cloaked in house-cured pancetta. Each tenderloin dazzles, and the dish’s confit croquettes are a crunchy, salty wonder. Finish with espresso and brûléed bread pudding, before retiring to one of the area’s elegant, mountain inns.