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Tanino has been a major factor in the resurgence of Westwood Village as a dining destination. The graceful Italian Renaissance-style building was originally designed as a music store in 1929 by famed L.A. architect Paul Williams (coincidentally, Williams was known for his restaurant designs, including celebrated haunts like Perino's and The Polo Lounge). Thanks to a loving restoration of this landmark, Tanino boasts one of the city's most splendid dining rooms. In the evening, when soft lighting plays off the soaring, ornately painted ceiling and travertine walls, and a fire flickers in the grand fireplace, the setting becomes romantic. Chef-owner Tanino Drago, who honed his skills at older brother Celestino's restaurant, Drago, creates authentic regional fare with contemporary touches. Starters of note include the tortino di melanzane, an eggplant soufflé with a tomato and basil sauce, hearty soups, and carpaccios like beef with capers and arugula. Among the pastas, you'll find homemade fettuccine with lamb ragù, risotto with wild mushrooms and mascarpone, and ravioli with spinach and ricotta. Main courses include classic osso buco with saffron risotto, and whole Dover sole. For dessert, consider one of the city's best renditions of tiramisu, a memorable panna cotta (a Drago brothers specialty) or pumpkin- and ricotta-stuffed crêpes with rum-raisin sauce. The largely Italian waitstaff are friendly, as is Tanino himself, who displays considerable charm on his rounds through the dining room.
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