 Tar & Roses Restaurant Review: The first word that comes to mind when describing the food at Tar & Roses is earnest. Because of his emphasis on agricultural-centric fare, chef/owner Andrew Kirschner still has many followers from his tenure at Wilshire. The only question is where to put everyone; reservations are essential. That said, it feels like a neighborhood restaurant, with a charming, rustic vibe. Exposed brick and wood feature prominently, both in the bustling main dining room and outside on the more-mellow patio. Wood also plays a big role in the cooking. The daily menu specifies what type the chef is using: almond, apple, olive, oak or walnut. At least one component in every dish touches the wood-fired oven, and many are finished in it. Start with the popped corn; the ingredients --- brown sugar, chili and crisp bacon --- mingle in alternating tastes of sweet, spice, salt and smoke. Charred Little Gem lettuce marries a trio of savory flavors: creamy burrata, pickled sardine and Dijon. The shellfish pot is packed with fresh seafood bathing in aromatic curry. Even Kirschner’s carrots achieve sophistication with chermoula crème fraîche. The wine list favors Italy and Spain, and servers steer wisely. We only wish there was a cocktail program, too.
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