Triomphe Restaurant Review: Quel Triomphe! This diminutive restaurant triumphs as one of the lovelier hotel restaurants in town. For starters, the dining room, separated from the attractive bar area by a curtain, has only 12 or so tables. The décor, while quite appealing, is a scaled-down version of a typical hotel restaurant featuring a glowing recessed ceiling with crown moldings galore and safe artwork. But there's more to it, from the lovely bud vases on each table to Steve Zobel's contemporary French menu; Triomphe manages to be a civilized retreat for diners in need of good food and proper service without the pretension and trendiness found elsewhere. A starter of chicken liver with sherry onions is haute comfort food, while seared scallops with the foie gras butter is a singularly sophisticated dish. Zobel's Hungarian-style braised rabbit legs are one of the better versions of rabbit we've seen in a while, and his salmon with crab meat béarnaise is pure indulgence. Be sure to try the coriander crusted Australian lamb rack with foie gras stuffed with prune and port wine reduction, the filet mignon with grilled porcini mushrooms, lemon butter, asparagus and truffle whipped potatoes, or for something lighter, the sautéed shrimp with mussel butter, chorizo, saffron risotto and sautéed spinach. After a complementary sliver of cheese and sip of sweet wine, the French desserts like crème brûlée and tarte Tatin please rather than impress.
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