 Valentino Restaurant Review: In a city where a restaurant's success can disappear as fast as stars in the sky, restaurateur Piero Selvaggio has definitely found the right recipe to keep Valentino shining for four decades. There are four downstairs dining rooms and the wine cellar room upstairs, probably the one we all prefer. Dining there will give you a chance to admire Selvaggio's extraordinary wine cellar, the guardian of more than 65,000 bottles from all over the world, where the grand prize is a 1891 Biondi-Santi at $25,000. Otherwise, travel the world through the 130-page wine list, where you'll discover much more affordable wines. Executive chef Nico Chessa, a native of Sardinia, oversees the menu. Starters range from wild mushroom timbale with Reggiano Parmesan and saffron to a butter lettuce and spinach salad with Grana shavings and hazelnuts, and lobster cannelloni in pink sauce. Continue with risotto or pasta --- perhaps paccheri with bolognese meat ragù --- then move on to the wide-ranging secondi, which might include a veal chop, grilled free-range chicken infused with herbs, and rack of lamb crusted with chestnuts and pecorino. A plate of Italian cheeses makes a good transition before the cannoli or panna cotta. There is also a five-course tasting menu available for $70 per person. The Valentino vin bar adds a casual touch to the fine dining establishment.
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