 Vetri Restaurant Review: Chef Marc Vetri needs no more than this intimate 30-seater on Spruce Street to impress guests. From the cozy décor --- walls awash in flaxen gold, assorted wooden chairs and knick-knacks on the wall --- comes a family dining room feel. Tables are arranged close enough to allow for not only a whiff but also a bird's eye view of your neighbor's meal. Vetri's food is earthy, eloquent and ambitious. His influences span from his Sicilian grandmother to kitchens in Italy, where he studied for years. To experience Vetri's well-rounded range of cooking, a six-course tasting menu for $155 is offered each evening, with the option of wine pairings at an additional cost (alternatively, consider a partial or full beer pairing). The repertoire has included cabbage braised monkfish with lobster broth; sweet onion crêpe with white truffle; roasted baby goat accompanied by stone-milled polenta; and for dessert, panna cotta or perhaps a cinnamon date tart accented with blood orange sorbetto. Jeff Benjamin has been with Vetri since the beginning in 1998. He smoothly transitions in his role(s) as Vetri's partner and the caretaker of the 2,500-bottle cellar that specializes in regional Italian wines but also accommodates 500 old-world and new-world varietals.
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