THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The 14 Wall Street Restaurant

THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED The 14 Wall Street Restaurant Restaurant Review:

It's well worth meeting the challenge of two elevators to reach this 31st-floor aerie for alimentation, the former home of legendary financier J. Pierpont Morgan. Modern money men and women gather amid turn-of-the-century opulence laid bare by owner Julian Davis, who stripped 50 coats of paint from the original mahogany moldings. Davis and executive chef Frédéric Feufeu offer upscale bistro fare and a view of Lady Liberty. Even salads sing a siren song with the likes of salmon tartare and calamari tossed with parsley and lemon oil. Honey apples confit, oxtail jelly and counter toast provide counterpoint in chef Feufeu's suave foie gras au torchon. Entrées are as light as grilled peppered tuna with quince and mango chutney or as bracing as roasted filet mignon over leeks fondue, celery root purée, caramelized pearl onions and shallots in red wine. You won't want to miss such sinful desserts as hot chocolate truffle cake or the crème brûlée tasting plate.