 Bouchon Restaurant Review: This helluva brasserie mimics perfectly a posh Parisian brasserie at the turn of the twentieth century, except for its Hollywoodian proportions often found in blockbuster movies. Allow a difference: this is Beverly Hills, not Montparnasse. The cathedral-high ceiling, adorned with an artistic brass massive chandelier reflecting its soft light on the soaring windows, is impressive. We had tears in our eyes when we realized we were treading upon tiles very similar to those our great-grandmother had laid on the floor of her residence in the City of Light circa 1890. The perfect replica created by famous designer Adam Tihany boasts heaps of details re-creating the style of la Belle Époque, such as the stations with their brass bars and the shape of the chairs. A battalion of rapid and cheerful waiters wearing white aprons over black outfits animates the vibrant scene. Indeed, this is what a brasserie is made for: exuding a sensation of happiness and comfort, a place for “la joie de vivre.” Thomas Keller has found the exact tone to fit the brasserie concept. David Hands, formerly Bouchon’s executive sous chef, has assumed the role of chef de cuisine, taking over for Rory Herrmann. The entire gamut of brasserie fare appears on the menu printed on the thin tan paper used in the past by French grocers: seafood platter, leg of lamb, steak frites, roasted chicken, boudin blanc sausages, bouchot mussels, charcuterie, Bibb lettuce with garden herbs, quiches, croque madame; they are all here (except the choucroute maybe), generously served by an expert hand, traditional and appetizing as ever. And since we are in America, you will find a huge beef burger, available for lunch from Monday through Friday, on a brioche bun. Desserts follow the same classic path: profiteroles and caramel custard are always pleasing.
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