 Boulud Sud Restaurant Review: Located around the corner from Bar Boulud and Epicerie Boulud, Boulud Sud marks Lyonnaise chef Daniel Boulud’s stamp on the Upper West Side (in the same way he has already taken over the Upper East Side). Boulud Sud, though, is a slight departure: as the name suggests, the cuisine here focuses on the Mediterranean. But Boulud and Company mostly pull it off with aplomb. The menu is separated into distinct sections: De La Mer, Du Jardin and De La Ferme. Though the cuisines of the south of France and Mediterranean have long leaned toward the sea, the De La Ferme dishes at Sud were the most impressive. The cod, for example, baked with a southern Med spice mixture, zaatar, fell rather flat. Duck leg kataifi, however, is a Greek-inspired phyllo-wrapped gem, bolstered by sweet date chutney; from Puglia, Boulud (or, rather, his executive chef Aaron Chambers) gives the diner orecchiette with tangy goat ragoût and wild garlic; and then there’s the fork-tender harissa-grilled lamb loin. Too full for dessert? The options are on the lighter side and very good: sorbet and sesame mousse-filled grapefruit givré takes the taste buds for a spin around the Mediterranean. The wine list, not surprisingly, does as well, with bottles from Lebanon to the Loire Valley, and is decently priced (even a few at the $30 range).
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