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Bu San's revved-up Korean approach to sushi and sashimi may be a shocker to ultra-traditionalists but an eye-opener to foodie adventurers. Occupying an unassuming corner of a Western Avenue mini mall, this little spot offers set meals of traditional Japanese-style sushi, sashimi and tempura, as well as udon and cooked entrées, for reasonable prices. But for something out of the ordinary, ask for the Korean sashimi. The procession of dishes that will follow might include a whole sea urchin in the shell, sweet prawns just plucked from the tank behind the sushi bar, abalone, salmon belly, halibut wing and a host of other cooked, marinated and raw fish selections. If the numerous sauces that accompany your meal confuse you, ask the sushi chef: he'll instruct which fish should be wrapped in toasted seaweed and dipped in a salted sesame oil; which take simple soy sauce or slices of raw jalapeño and garlic; and which should be paired with the house sauce, a sweet-and-spicy tomato-based dip. The banchan (Korean side dishes) themselves are a diversion from the pickled vegetable and shellfish dishes one might expect. On our visits, they have included marinated squid, periwinkles, seasoned tripe, boiled quail eggs in the shell and nira (Japanese chives).
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