 Campton Place Restaurant Restaurant Review: Any chef who walks into the Campton Place kitchen must contend with history. After all, toques from Birnbaum to Ogden and Manrique to Humm once helmed the stoves, where current chef Srijith Gopinathan presides. A sculpted glass flower chandelier softly illuminates the dining room, where brown leather dresses the luxurious booths. Chef "Sri" lights up the menu with bright flavors and bold stylings, but he also shows restraint. French and Californian technique tame the spicy influences drawn from his native land, India. His gentle touch shines on a simple spot prawn sashimi with perilla foam and dashi. Red beets puréed with beet juice and vinegar form curd, cooled by an icy snow of frozen goat cheese. We also like a sardine with slow cooked tomatoes, but an overly gingery sorbet impairs the dish. Sri cooks baby lamb just right and his lentil gâteau with squash and green garlic shows off spring's finest attributes. Desserts have included genmai cha (green tea and roasted brown rice), churned into ice cream with puffed farro added for texture. Warm peaches add natural sweetness. Another flourish at the finish: spiced cherries, vanilla hazelnut sponge with cherry pit ice cream. Master sommelier Richard Dean (Tavern on the Green, The Mark) matches with confident pairings.
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