Clover

Clover Restaurant Review:

Über-chef Jean-François Piège, who garnered kudos in the grand restaurants (Crillon, Plaza Athénée), has opened with his wife, Elodie, a tiny place of his own, seating 20 people. “One hundred percent ours, it’s really our place. A real neighborhood restaurant in Saint Germain des Près,” he brags with a smile of pleasure. Formerly a hamburger joint, the renovated space, lightened by white enamel tiles made according to the Japanese Raku method and blond wood tables, feels convivial and homey. Jean-François has concocted an affordable menu as it suits such a concept, but with chef Shinya Usami at the ovens, he preserves quality and elegance. Start with crispy quinoa with eggplant caviar, black sesame and sate; the steamed brioche with minced truffles; or the watercress bouillon with smoked herring, yuzu (Asian citrus) and chestnuts. Then move on to a duck pie with curly salad in its juice, a cod fish curry with limes and veggies or oxtail with grilled chestnuts served with curds. Desserts reserve some surprise as well: think of the unexpected “flouve” ice cream and its roasted squash seeds (flouve is a medicinal plant, used in popular medicine to treat blood circulation, which exudes a fragrance of vanilla and hay). It’s the final revelation in an inventive, exciting bill of fare at €28 or €42. Jean-François has fine-tuned a listing of 40 or so noteworthy wines to match his findings.