Commerce Restaurant Review: Bustling with energy, Commerce’s airy room is packed with tables and people of all ages. Rescued from the space’s former incarnation, Grange Hall, are colorful murals and banquettes, now covered in chestnut leather. In the center of the room, there’s almost an overabundance of round tables situated between tiled columns. Past mystique aside, this eatery resembles a fine wine: well aged with bold flavors from the contemporary American menu. Start with the savory Beau Soleil oysters with green apple gelée, mint and lemon ice, then continue to the red snapper on a bed of puréed kabocha squash in a Thai-inspired sauce that offers hints of mint and scallions. Other taste sensations include the braised beef with bone marrow, sliced sirloin steak and crushed cauliflower as well as the roasted sweet potato tortelloni that bursts with bits of fruity pomegranate seeds. Across the room at the crowded---and restored---Art Deco bar, colorful cocktails like the Daisy, a mix of vodka, house-made grenadine, lemon juice and Prosecco, are sipped with pleasure. Indeed, everything “old” is new (and good) again.
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