Earl's Beer & Cheese Restaurant Review
1259 Park Ave. (E. 97th St.) 
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New York, NY 10029
212-289-1581
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| Earl's is tiny, loud and hard to find, as well as quite inexpensive. The vibe is young and cool. So what is it doing on upper Park Avenue? With only 24 seats and lots of people standing about, you’ll feel like you’ve stumbled into someone’s party den. Cheese dominates the menu. Our favorites are any of the rich grilled cheese sandwiches, not like anything you remember from your childhood, made with the likes of pork belly, kimchi and a fried egg. Mac ‘n’ cheese brims with goat cheese, rosemary and chicken. You can also order a cheese board with a variety of local choices, accompanied by honey, preserves and seasoned butter. Not in the mood for cheese? Try the steak tartare or the potpie, whatever is the special of the day. Artisanal beers and local wines, apropos for the planked-wood floor setting that’s reminiscent of a Wyoming cabin, change daily. Chef Corey Cova’s training at Momofuku Ssäm Bar is evident in the eclectic menu, and you’ll wish the restaurant were larger. |
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