 Hospoda Restaurant Review: While chef Oldrich Sahajdak largely oversees the kitchen at his Prague restaurant La Degustation (where he has been on the forefront of reinventing Czech cuisine for the twenty-first century), chef Katie Busch is in charge of sister establishment Hospoda, which translates as “pub” in Czech. But don’t be misled by the name; this is a chic, Upper East Side restaurant located in the Bohemian National Hall (a Czech cultural center). Artistic wall engravings, enhanced by cool back-lighting, create a hip atmosphere in which to enjoy the food. Busch takes a more continental, less Central European Czech-focused approach. Slow-cooked chicken breast is fork-tender, while spaghetti is paired with crab, tomatoes and a shellfish emulsion, a well-conceived combination. The wine list is decent and includes a few off-the-radar Hungarian and Austrian wines. But do yourself a favor and get a pint of Pilsner Urquell; it’s shipped in from the town of Plzen and not brewed in Canada like most of the Urquell found in the U.S.
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