Situated among the expensive boutiques and star-chitecture where Bond Street meets the Bowery, this discrete industrial-bedecked noodle joint is the standout of the block. Hung Ry serves up bowls of soupy Asian delights, the best of which is the utterly irresistible hand-pulled noodles. Diners have a choice between thin and thick versions, and we say go for the thick (which are slightly more rotund than spaghetti). Mix in a semi-dark, delicate broth in a choice of flavors and you’re set for multiple visits. One favorite noodle bowl is the unctuous pork belly (with crispy beef tongue). Another is the braised veal cheek, accompanied by marrow, slices of calf’s liver and Japanese sweet potato. The more sophisticated, nuanced starters, though, almost steal the show: the fried squid with pumpkin seeds and the subtle monkfish liver (paired with crispy sautéed hen of the woods mushrooms) linger on the palate long after the meal is over. The wine selection is very accessible: a dry Finger Lakes Riesling on tap and a small handful of bottles in the $20 and $30 range (in addition to pricier selections).
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